Leaving the Bedni camp site was not easy for me. I used to look back after every 15-20 steps so that I can etch the view in my heart for eternity. The trail disappeared into a saddle in the mountain. Crossing the saddle exposed other side of the ridge which was slightly different. The lush green meadows paved way for rocky landscapes and amber grasses. This place was called Ghora Lotani. Locals maintain that horses used to return back downhill after this place as there was no fodder available for them to graze beyond this point.

Ghora Lotani was followed by a gradual descent to Pathar Nachauni camp site. It was situated at the foot of the hill that holds Kalu Vinayak temple. This camp site was at a good 13000 ft. and one could start feeling the thinness in air from this point onwards. We were now in the zone where AMS hits was rampant. The whizzing Himalayan icy winds were on a prowl. Imposing Kali Dak peak rose above us flanked by Maiktoli and Mrigthuni. We were able to get a glimpse of Nanda Ghunti as well when the clouds cleared for a while.

Pathar Nachauni is called so, because as per the folklore all the court dancers of the Garhwali king (complete story shared in the first section of previous post) were turned into stones due to wrath of the goddess. Many were turned into stones while the rest were swallowed in the ground. There are a lot of huge stones and big holes in the ground at Pathar Nachauni which corroborates this story.

Probably, the actual temperature at Pathar Nachauni was not that low (around 3°C), but it was the chilling wind that was creating the sub-zero impact. Till now, I hadn’t used my down jacket as I wanted to acclimatize my body to cold weather. But the ferocious winds here persuaded me to gear up with woolen cap, neck warmer and my thick down jacket. Sleeping with tent opened (even slightly) was not an option today. Vivek was in a bit of trouble today- how to cope up with his phobia. However, he had a small chat with the camp manager, Dushyant, and it helped him. Dushyant was one of the senior most members of IndiaHikes and extremely experienced. No wonder why he was stationed at such difficult camp site. I don’t know the details of the conversation they had, but it somehow worked for Vivek. Although he slept with torch lit up inside the tent, but thankfully the tent was zipped up completely that night.

Fact file -

Bhagwabasa was the highest altitude camp site of our trek. It was a steep climb from Pathar Nachauni to Kalu Vinayak temple and a slight descent to the Bhagwabasa base camp.

Mythology states that Lord Shiva once asked his two sons, Ganesha and Kartikeya, to visit the three worlds to gain knowledge. Whoever does it right and quickly would be the heir to Shiva. Kartikeya clambered upon his peacock and rode South. Ganesh, however, circumambulated Lord Shiva and goddess Parvati and said politely that his parents were his entire worlds and he need not go anywhere. Shiva was impressed with this and blessed Ganesh “kevalam ganesham”. This is the reason why Ganesha is worshipped before any god and is in the lap of Shiva and Parvati in all the photos. This temple also sits in the lap of Nanda Ghunti and Trishul, hence called Kalu Vinayak (kevlam became kalu over a period of time). However, some people maintain that Kalu Vinayak got its name from the black Ganesh idol enclosed in a stone shrine. Bhagwabasa is the place where goddess Parvati left her tiger (bagh) while she was on her way to Kailash with Lord Shiva. 

The climb to Kalu Vinayak temple is a steep zig-zag trail. With every turn, we gained significant height and it continued till we reached the top of the mountain where Kalu Vinayak shrine was present. We continued to have the same formation – Krishna with girls at the front, and Pradhanji at the back. It is imperative that this climb is done slowly so that body gets ample time to acclimatize. We reached Kalu Vinayak temple by noon. It was a very demanding trail – long distance, steep climb, cold wind and thin air. Shutterbugs clicked “been-there-done-that” pictures while the rest of us (including me) chose to rest in silence.

We kick started our descent to Bhagwabasa camp site after half an hour. This trail was our first encounter with snow line. This camp site was entirely rocky with snow patches here and there and no trace of grass. Draped in a dense mist, Bhagwabasa camp site provided a magnificent view of Trishul and Nanda Ghunti. And it was from here that we first got the glimpse of our summit point, Roopkund lake. Far away in the snow-capped mountains, cradled amidst the majestic peaks was a small depression. A frail zig-zag path soaring over snow leading to the depression. It was beyond that depression lied Roopkund, a mystery resting peacefully in the cusp of mountain.

After the lunch, we had a long briefing by Raju da. He led a technical team who accompanied and helped the trekkers of IndiaHikes reach Roopkund. He educated us with do’s and don’ts. We were given crampons and gaiters. These equipments make it possible to walk on snow. We tried it on and walked on snow patches near camp site to make ourselves accustomed. 

It was during this time, it started to snow. Gossamer snowflakes falling on my skin and melting into water droplets leaving behind a cool tingling sensation in its wake. This is for the time that I had experienced snow fall. I was brimming with joy. My fellow trekkers were also out of their tents and enjoying the snow fall.

The night was not very pleasant though. The snowfall was accompanied with ferocious winds. It felt as if the tent would fly away with us, such was the might of those chilly winds. But kudos to IndiaHikes staffs; they came to each and every tent and assured us that nothing would happen and they were there for their safety. It means a lot to say “you guys sleep peacefully, we will be awake to watch your back”, but IndiaHikes staffs did. Their consoling words did assuage the fear of some mishap. But somewhere in the back of my head, another fear was cropping up, “will this bad weather allow us reach the summit tomorrow”. I didn’t have an answer to this and chose not to worry about it either.

Fact file -

·         Bhagwabasa – 14100 ft. 

Today was the summit day. It was an awe-inspiring feeling. My mind was overwhelmed with plenty of “what-ifs” - what if weather plays the spoilsport, what if I fall sick before summit, what if some mishap happens and many more. But probably this squeamish feeling, these butterflies in stomach, this eleventh hour fumbling are what defines the summit day.

We had to start before the daybreak. This is because snow is hard in the wee hours of the morning and it’s easier to walk on it. Snow starts getting softer as the sun rises and poses problem. Hence, we were supposed to wake up at 2.30 AM in the morning and leave the camp site at 3.30 AM sharp. When I woke up at 2 AM to get done with my morning chores, to my horror, I noticed that there weren’t any toilet tents. Last night’s wind had shown its colors and all the 3 toilet tents were down. I immediately rushed to IndiaHikes staffs and apprised them of the situation. They were prompt and within 15-20 minutes erected the tents for us. Quite an eventful start to the D-day J.

All of us ate porridge, packed our breakfast and other necessary stuffs (water, poncho, torch and sunscreen) in our day-pack and started our summit climb sharp at 3.30 AM. In addition to usual 26 of us (22 trekkers, 2 trek leaders and 2 trek guides) there were 6 more IndiaHikes people who were expert at Roopkund trekking. These guys walked parallel to us opposite to mountain side, so that they can catch hold if someone slips. We walked in the light of torches that all of us were carrying. The distance from Bhagwabasa to Roopkund is just 5 km, but most of trail is covered with snow and that makes it difficult. Walking in sub-zero temperature in the light of torch at an altitude of 15000 ft. is, by no means, an easy task. And more so, for people like us who are not accustomed to this. For most of the part of the climb, I followed Saurabh. He was stepping gingerly on snow avoiding loose rocks or slippery ice patches. This made things easier for me as I was just following his footsteps.

We rested in between for a while, before climbing the final stretch. I ate the apple that was given at the camp site. I looked around. Dawn had broken over me. Acres of whiteness draped in blue hue with a tinge of tangerine at the horizon. Was it real? Or was it Picasso’s canvas or some scene from an eerie horror movie? It was a magical realism.

The climb was steep in the final stretch. We had to clamber in last 15 minutes. But all was forgotten at the first glimpse of Roopkund beyond the edge. BLOODY HELL, WE DID IT! We hugged each other tightly, exchanged high fives, screamed, cried. Emotions were running high. The sense of accomplishment and satisfaction imbued every fibre of my being. Ecstasy was oozing out of every single pore of my body. It was a beautiful moment.

While we were busy clicking photos and selfies with all sorts of pouts, our trek guides and leaders and other IndiaHikes support staffs were discussing Junargali. No group (even outside IndiaHikes) had done Junargali this season. So, it was a tough call for everyone. Finally, we were gathered and informed that Junargali is on. Yay J. But only limited set of folks would be taken along as the climb to Junargali is treacherous and extremely risky. I was among the chosen few. The adventure began at around 7 AM.

Junargali is a sharp ridge line that towers above Roopkund at an altitude of 16100 ft. Although the climb from Roopkund to Junargali is not much (around 400 ft.), but the trail is extremely steep. Just before Junargali, there is a rock formation that needs to clambered. The risky part was that the rock is perched at the edge of the cliff and one wrong foot could lead directly to Roopkund lake adding yours to the existing set of bones. IndiaHikes support staffs came to the rescue; they helped every one of us cross that rock formation. And finally, Junargali! 16100 feet! I certainly scaled new heights.

From Junargali, one could see immense ice fields leading to Shila Samudra and Ronti saddle and mighty Trishul commandeering the area in the backdrop. Besides Trishul there is Nanda Ghunti as well. Looking at these peaks from so close was exhilarating.

We spent almost half an hour there and started our descend from Junargali to Roopkund at around 8 AM and were down within 15-20 minutes. We had to use ropes while descending near that treacherous rock formation. But once past that, it was not that difficult. I had Anubhav in front of me and Indrajit (trek leader) behind. Indrajit tossed the idea of sliding and, oh boy, we didn’t think twice. Anubhav and I apprised fellow trekkers ahead of us and just released ourselves. Those 5-10 seconds of sliding on snow was delirious, one of the high points of this trek.

As sun was shining in its full glory, it was bound to have it impact on snow. So, we decided to head back to camp site while the snow was still hard. I paid my respects to Roopkund and started the return journey at around 8.45 AM. We reached the campsite by 11.30 AM where our kitchen staff treated us with Pasta in lunch. We started descneding to Pathar Nachauni camp site at around 1 PM. The path to Pathar Nachauni via Ghora Lotani was traced back and were able to reach the camp site by 3.30 PM. While nearing the camp site, I, along with Vivek and Apurva, was caught in a hailstorm. Another first J. Hailstorms the size of thermocol beads hit us while we were almost 5 minutes away. Running towards camp site in hailstorm was fun.

I was tired, dog-tired. Ascend to Roopkund, then Junargali, back to Bhagwabasa and then descending the very same day to Pathar Nachauni takes a toll on body. All of us had early dinner that day and went to sleep the moment tents were set.

Fact file -

We woke up with a refreshed body and satisfied mind. Everyone was jubilant. Not only all of us reached summit, but also opened Junargali for subsequent batches. We had our breakfast, packed our lunch, and left the camp site at our usual time. We were supposed to retrace our trail to Bedni Bugyal, but instead of going to Ali Bugyal, we had to take a shortcut directly to Ghairoli Patal leading to Wan. Rolling meadows of Bedni Bugyal were a welcome sight. We reached Bedni at around 11 AM and had lemonade over there. After relaxing for 15-20 minutes at Bedni camp site, we headed to Ghairoli Patal. We were at Ghairoli Patal by 12.30 PM. Some people wanted to take their lunch at Neel Ganga, but I was famished. I could have eaten a horse. I quickly took my lunch there itself with a few others and then headed towards Neel Ganga within half an hour. I was going slow. Not every day I got a chance to be so close to nature, away from civilization. Chatting and debating with fellow trek mates on random topics, clicking photos and taking frequent breaks to look around; I was filling myself up with every bit of memories that I could take along. By 3 PM, I was at Neel Ganga. Removing the shoes and putting the feet in the cool water once again was a relief. This invigorated my body and prepared me for the small but steep ascend to Ran ki Dhar. By 5.30 PM, we were in Wan where jeeps were waiting to take us to Lohajung base camp. As before, it was a rickety ride, but we have had worse in last 6 days.

On reaching the base camp, I had a nice bath. Finally J. The feel of tepid water dripping down from my head to the body after a gap of 8 days was heavenly. We had a final briefing session at night where certificates of accomplishment were distributed and everyone shared their feeling. I was among the lucky six who were given a gift vouchers of 1000/-. All of us went to a restaurant nearby and had our dinner. The bliss of eating crispy chicken after a week is just inexplicable.

The next day morning, I woke up at 5, although I was not needed to. I just couldn’t sleep any longer thinking that all this will go away today. I will be back in civilization, honking vehicles, asphyxiating smog, phone calls, emails and many more things to worry about.

We said goodbye to our lovely trek leaders, Bhim and Indrajit, with heavy heart. The love, care and affection that these guys showered on us during this entire trek was phenomenal. I got into a Sumo with Sushil, Bhushan, Neha and Annapurni and bid adieu to mountains. We met the gang again at the snacks point and at railway station. Most of the guys took Ranikhet express that day; I was taking Shatabdi express next day.

Firstly, I learnt that putting an extra yard pays off. While climbing Junargali, my body wanted to give up in the last stretch. At every step, my body was telling me to stop. But mental strength starts where physical strength gives up. I pushed myself every single time and once at the top, there was pure ecstasy. Had I given up before, I would have gone back with the feeling of “so near yet so far”. In the hindsight, I think what elated me more was the sense of accomplishment than the scenic beauty. It was great practical learning for me. Secondly, it was humbleness. Mountains keep you humble. You cross a barrier, and start feeling like a star. Mountains will kick that stardom out of you the very next day. Don’t be a gama in the land of lama J. And thirdly, the clichéd “journey matters more than the destination”. Had there been a cable car to take me all the way up to Roopkund, I would have enjoyed for a minute or so. But what after that. The vivid memories created while trekking, camping, eating together, not washing our lunch boxes together J, bombing someone’s photo, smelling like pig but still socially acceptable and many seemingly nugatory chit chats are something that stays in the heart forever. And that’s what really matters.

Now back on the same familiar bed, resting my head against same pillow, being part of the cogwheel stuck in usual run-of-the-mill surroundings, when I look back I find memories. Memories that are holding my hand with one, and those beautiful 8 days with another. Memories that will keep me warm in chilly hours and minutes of uncertainty. Memories that will iridesce and lighten up my gloomy ennui with a gentle smile. Memories that I will cherish throughout my life. As they say, memories are something that are left when something happens, but never completely unhappens. Roopkund will never unhappen.